A state-organised festival of music and dance staged on the ghats over five days, from Prabodhini Ekadashi to Kartik Purnima. Hindustani classical performers, kathak and local traditions share a stage set against the river, with established names and newer artists on the same bill.
Alongside the concerts there is a handicrafts exhibition, food stalls and traditional sport: wrestling, kite flying and boat races. It ends on the night of Dev Deepawali, so a visitor who comes for one can see both.
It is the most accessible of Varanasi's festivals for a visitor who wants the city's culture without the density of a religious observance. Seating is laid out, the evenings are programmed, and the whole thing is designed to be watched rather than joined. Programmes start after dark; bring a shawl, as November nights by the river are cool.
